![]() So which is the one to buy? Read on for the reviews in full, including running costs, sizing, safety measures, timer and control heating settings. In the home, you might consider using an electric heater if only requiring short, targeted warmth but Bennett warns that these devices are “not so great for a constant heating source in a large area where heat disperses quickly,” because they struggle to fill the space. So you’re looking for the most heating output from the lowest electricity usage.” “But electricity is not exactly cheap at the moment either. “When gas prices are unaffordable they may help cut bills if used sparingly,” says Rob Bennett, technical service manager at Pimlico Plumbers. Used properly, with judicious use of the thermostat, they can be economical – particularly for heating bedrooms and for occasional use in the coldest parts of the house. You can always plug a lamp into the lamp timer thus when the compressor is on the lamp is on.When the price of gas soars, a portable electric heater (sometimes known as a space heater) is worth considering. ![]() If you use the low voltage relay, then get a 12V wall wart and use it to power the relay. If you use a 120V controlled relay you can just have a power cord from the wall timer to the relay (note the relay should be in a socket in an electrical box). You need a simply common lamp timer to switch power to the relay on/off. The next question is how do you control the relay. Since it's low current you don't need anything overly special to switch it on/off. This is a low current line (likely 240V) that tells the magnetic starter to send power to the pump motor. The idea is the relay will connect/disconnect the line from the pressure switch to the motor starter. It would require some sort of low voltage transformer to control it but that's actually not a big deal. The amperage doesn't need to be very high. Note: you might want one that can switch 240V. Still not bad, but it tends to happen at the wrong time in the upstairs TV room. If the main ball valve is ON and all the others are closed, the compressor will kick in after about 4 hours. ![]() As it is, it takes a couple of days to lose enough air for the compressor to kick in to maintain pressure. If there is an air leak in the compressor, it can kick on, run (nearly) forever, overheat and burn the place down. ![]() Yes, there can be drawbacks to a system like this. I will then turn off the ball valve at the compressor, then open the ball valves on any of the four drops to bleed pressure from the shop lines. Simply can't miss it when leaving the shop. When there is pressure in the shop lines, the light is ON. A pair of wires run from the power supply to the switch on the compressor regulator. I have a 12-volt wall-wart power supply near the entry door that is connected to a trailer marker light that is mounted about eye level. I removed the plug on the 'off' side and installed a brake switch from a motorcycle (I think it was a Harley). The regulator has ports on both sides, so you can put the gauge on either side. I also have a ball valve right at the tank, just before the regulator. Click to expand.My system is in between these two.
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